We are a small workshop that produces select leather goods in small quantities and made-to-order. Each item is carefully designed, crafted, and inspected before it gets to you.
Oakenlander was founded in 2016 in Nashville, TN. Starting out slow, we spent a good amount of time exploring various leathers, product options, and crafting techniques. After a few years of testing, we’ve settled on the items available in our current range, with a few other options available in our custom shop or in limited release.
Our goal is to find consistently clean leathers, rich in feel, that will age to a beautiful patina. The leathers we choose meet these requirements and are either used for standard production or in the custom shop. English bridle and Chromexcel leathers are a little softer in hand, while the Buttero and Gaucho are more firm.
Research and concept work is a constant activity at Oakenlander. Whether looking for new design inspiration, spending hours in the studio drafting up new ideas, or picking our current designs apart to see if any improvements should be made. Once an initial template has been drafted, it’s printed and tested on scrap. Adjustments are made and testing continues until we are happy with the result.
Once a design has been finalized, we carefully measure out the various components on the chosen hide. Each piece is cut by hand and the remainder is sorted for future products or scrap. After the leather has been cut, it is organized into small stacks and is then ready for preliminary finish work and construction. Internal pockets are creased and edge paint is applied to match (or burnished depending on request). Designated areas are then stamped with our mark.
The next phase is assembly with special seam tape or glue, as necessary. Once panels are placed, edges and lines are inspected, trim corrections are made, and the appropriate edges are creased and marked for stitching. Each and every item is hand-stitched using the traditional method of saddle stitching. This technique allows for a clean thread pitch on both sides of the leather and produces a small knot within each hole to lock the thread in place. If a particular stitch is severed during use, the remaining stitches won’t unravel like most machine stitching.
After all areas have been stitched, the edges are sanded and beveled as needed to ensure an even finish. Depending on the design and request of the client, either burnished or painted edges complete the product. Burnishing uses moisture and heat to smooth out the exposed leather grain and can yield a durable, glossy protective surface (more natural). Edge paint is generally applied in two layers and heated or sanded after each application for a smooth, durable finish. This method is especially used on leathers that won’t produce a burnished edge (most chrome tannages).
Consistent quality is an important part of our entire process; from choosing the leather to final inspection. As leather is a natural product, there may be marks on the hide from the life of the animal. These are normal and part of the character and beauty of full-grain leather. However, we only choose the cleanest areas of a hide for production.
We check each item throughout the crafting process to ensure it meets our standards – with a final check before leaving the workshop. Items that don’t pass are kept as shop demos, recycled, or scraped. Basically, if we wouldn’t be happy with buying it ourselves, it doesn’t get sold.
Orders placed after November 1 are not guaranteed production or delivery for Christmas. Thank you for your patience!